Chapter 3 out of 3:
3/3 Lisbon in December: All trails lead to the sea!
3. Lisbon in December – All trails lead to the sea!
At the westernmost point of the European mainland you will find a labyrinth of mountains and valleys that look like a fairytale forest and previously thought to be the edge of the world. Today, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and tourist trap. The Sintra nature reserve, bordering on Lisbon, is every romantic’s dream with its palaces, though it also attracts mountain bikers with its steep descents and ocean views.
In summer, the queue for the train from Lisbon to Sintra is often longer than those in front of Berlin night clubs. And if you’re not careful, you’ll miss the real party. Blinded by magnificent buildings and castles, many overlook the reserve’s natural beauty – lush forests full of ferns and eucalyptus, still hiding relics from ancient times. Winding through it all you’ll find both beautifully shaped and natural singletrack – every rider’s dream.
The previous evening’s indulgence is still weighing down our legs as my father and I select Turbo mode for the first time that day. “We’ll be late again.” Yesterday we chased the sunset through the narrow streets of Lisbon, today we do the same in the rambling nature reserve of Sintra. After a hearty brunch in Lisbon, we thought that we’d be fit enough to explore this trail paradise in the afternoon.
Without a motor, I would have had to stop here. After what feels like the steepest climb in the park, we meet WeRide guide João Mourão in a high-altitude parking lot with a breathtaking view of the Atlantic. With a warm, “Hey guys, vamos à praia?” he greets us while soaking in the sun at the shuttle bus. We hug and give him the short version of last night’s escapades in Lisbon as we roll towards the trailhead. 50 meters, two panorama shots and one selfie for the family album later, it is time to pull up the knee pads. We follow a single track that trails off beyond the horizon as we look ahead. “Come on guys, let’s have fun.” What follows are endless switchbacks on steep slopes, rock gardens and small jumps, all heading towards Europe’s westernmost tip.
The sun hangs low in the sky as we surf the dusty trail towards the Atlantic. The trail eventually leads us through a recently burnt down forest, all the way to the beach. We’re finished! When we arrive we give each other high-fives, leave our cameras in our backpacks and enjoy the view. But rest assured, where the world was previously thought to come to an end, it continues 😉
From the end of the world to the other side of Lisbon
My girlfriend, Stephanie has had enough! She’s heard and read enough about eMTBs. She just wants to try it out. Since dad is still out buying souvenirs for the family, we quickly grab his bike to climb the shore on the opposite side of the city. She’s a bit too small for dad’s bike, but the size of her astonished grin when she first steps on the pedals makes up for it.
You can’t help but be amazed your first time. Neither can Stephanie! Aside from the red Uber ebikes, bicycles are a rare sight in Lisbon. The city’s seven hills make riding here difficult and usually, taxis are her preferred form of transportation. But after the first few meters on the Haibike it’s clear that this will not be the last time she rides an ebike. She looks astonished every time we ride uphill, cheering “wooohuuu!” Her joy echoes through Lisbon’s streets as we head towards the harbour.
Once at the docks, we take the ferry to Almada on the other side. What about the bikes? Take them with you! While we aren’t charged extra for the bikes, we do have to buy a ticket for our trail dog, Bonnie. Fifteen minutes later we are enjoying the view of Lisbon from the opposite shore. Passing the first restaurants, we cruise along the pier and watch fishermen do their thing. We stop to soak up the sun while enjoying a glass of wine with a dish of fish and vegetables.
As I said, Lisbon has many names. But the capital of Portugal is one thing above all – the city of light. It entices you to pull out your camera and capture its colourful facades and the reflections of light dancing across the river at sunset. Whether we’ve got our cameras ready or not, we take in the sights from Coreto de Almada, a viewpoint above the restaurants. Usually, the climb up here is long and steep, but today it feels short and effortless.
We choose the more decadent but still cheap form of transportation via water taxi back to the city. € 10 per person, including bikes and dog. You get picked up on the beach and skipper Miguel from Taxi Boat Rio lifts the bikes onto the boat himself! Accompanied by funky music and the sound of a 90 HP engine, we head back home under the Ponte Bridge cast in a dreamy light.
Lisbon can be so beautiful, especially when you head away from the worn-out tourist attractions and let yourself drift. Go and discover the hidden treasures of the city and the surrounding woods for yourself, at your own pace. Wander through its alleys without an agenda, stroll through its markets and let the locals inspire you. Watch the sunrise on one of the countless miradouros and the sunset on one of the golden beaches. Just have a good time and don’t stress yourself. Come on down to Lisbon, visit Sintra and Cascais. Obrigado! Até já!
Dive into the following three chapters:
3/3 Lisbon in December: All trails lead to the sea!
